menus

“In a town full of handcrafted burgers, I have yet to find one that lives up to Locavore’s cheeseburger ($15), dripping, dressed with house-cured bacon, grilled onions and aioli, accompanied with thick golden french fries. Also notable are crispy fried duck wings ($10), with soft, rich flesh that develops from being first cooked slowly in duck fat. The kitchen, headed by Jonathan Merritt, is inspired by local products.”

“The best salad on the menu is the tomato ($10) with loads of cilantro, pickled onions, paper-thin coins of salted cucumbers and chicharron, or fried pig skins. I also loved the house-cured prosciutto ($11) with melon, fennel and basil cream.”

“We were most impressed with the spicy yuba soy roll ($17), a trio of chubbies made from yuba (tofu skin), stuffed with chopped, spiced yuba, gift-wrapped with ribbons of wilted red-mustard greens and finished with an emulsion of soy and puréed baby leeks that assumed the form of a foam the pale green color of spring. The plate also included a small bundle of whole baby leeks, which added their subtle, sublime oniony-ness to the proceedings and were only slightly hard to handle.”